King's Day Criterium - Holland, Michigan

I was twice as excited for the second race of the weekend which was the King’s Day Criterium in Holland, Michigan.  Holland is a 2.5 hour drive from my house in Chicago but I wasn't dissuaded by the long drive.  I got up early and got a good breakfast before loading up the car and driving to pick up my friend and teammate Andrew Zens who was going to be racing with me that day.  Together we made the drive over to Michigan.  We talked "stra-tegery" and about the good/bad things that came out of the Whitnall Park race yesterday.  Before we knew it we were pulling into an open parking lot near the downtown area of Holland. 

When we got out of the car the wind struck us both hard and even though it was a clear blue sky day the wind put a nip in the air.  We both got ready and Zens went to get our race numbers.  After pinning up we rode the course and got warmed up in a parking lot nearby.  I was feeling good legs and was hoping it wasn’t just the tailwind.  At the start line I counted only 19 which was pretty small and as I surveyed my competition I could only see 2 teams represented and both had only 2 teammates.  After watching previous races that day both Zens and I determined that if any break was going to succeed it would need at least 3-4 riders and some teammates to block so our strategy was to mark breakaways and only chase if we saw bigger groups.  The start was straight into a gusty headwind and I knew the sprint would also be into the same wind.  Immediately Zens went to the front and I was on his wheel.  The pace was easy and despite a few nervous corners there was nothing crazy going on in the first few laps.  At one time I looked up and saw an unknown junior leaning heavily with full head and shoulders into Zens.  Zens rode like a rock and didn’t even sway from his line but looked at the kid and asked “what that was all about?”  I’m still not sure, considering we were only riding 25mph into a tailwind on open road.

Mid race riding in the pack.  Eventual winner behind me in yellow.

Andrew Zens taking the corner hot

The pack was inexperienced and gaps formed but since Zens and I were near the front we were quick to bring them back and keep the group together.  I was probably doing more work than I should but as the race went on I was feeling better and better.  Over halfway through the race I was feeling good and riding near the front.  I was taking corners full speed with no breaks and really putting the pressure on.  There were a few riders who tried solo moves off the front but their efforts were short lived and all dropped back into the group after a lap or so.  I never dropped out of the top 5 wheels most of the race.  Part of the reason I was feeling good was because I was avoiding the accordion effect that permeates the back half of the field in a technical 8 corner crit like this.

With 5-6 laps to go I was near the front starting to think about how the finish would play out.  No one was working and I found myself on the front into the headwind which was not where I wanted to be.  I finally stopped pedaling altogether and waited for someone else to take the front.  At this point my heart rate dropped to around 150 which is practically fully recovered so I was feeling good when the flurry of attacks came with 4 to go.  One guy who I’d been watching all race took a flyer into the headwind and another unknown rider followed.  With two off the front I did not hesitate to let them go.  My race plan was to let any attacks go with less than 3-4 riders.  Not realizing I could have been #3 I watched them ride off, confident the strong wind would bring them back in a lap or two just before the finale. 

Unfortunately my plan backfired and within 10-15 seconds they were far out front and I was to far back to do anything.  After another lap I realized they were stronger than I thought and had a good chance of maintaining the gap to the end.  I half heartedly chased but the gap was to much for me to bridge.  With one to go I decided to focus on the field sprint and pushed the pace.  I looked back and realized I had a gap and pushed a little harder into the headwind.  I had a small gap and into the tailwind I put the hammer down to make sure I didn’t get passed.  I wasy flying full speed and railed the “s” curve creating a bigger gap between myself and the chasing field.  Keeping the pressure on in the downwind sections I made the turn into the last headwind straight.  I put my chin on my handlebars to get as aerodynamic as possible and went all out.  I knew the field was falling further behind but I didn’t look to confirm I just kept pushing hard.  Into the final 2 turns and onto the sprint straight I knew I was very far in front of the field but this is where I’ve been burned in the past.  Not wanting to turn around and risk getting passed I just pushed harder and at 200m launched into a full sprint.  When I crossed the line I looked back and the pack was way behind me.  I probably looked a little foolish sprinting all by myself but still a solid 3^rd place.

I was pleased with the finish but angry at myself for letting that 2 man break go.  If I’d hopped on the wheel I would have won the sprint and the race.  Still, it was a good effort and I was rewarded with a Wooden Clog for my 3^rd place effort.  It was a great day and weekend of racing and the first podium of the year so on the drive home I was on cloud 9.  I keep making improvements as the season progresses which is all you can ask for at this point in the year.

Barry-Roubaix 2014

This weekend I kicked off the 2014 race season with a new type of event.  Barry Roubaix is dubbed the “Killer Gravel Road Race” and it sure lived up to its name Saturday.  I have never done a long gravel road race like this before so I was excited but a little nervous at the same time.  Overall the event attracts thousands of participants, and this year there were more than 2,000 pre-registered.  The group of people is diverse and ranges from novice weekend riders doing the short 24 mile route up to elite Cat 1’s doing the full 62 mile “Killer” route.  I registered for the 62 mile open event which means there are no categories and everyone goes off in one big wave.  At the start there were two pros lined up right in front of me, which I could tell because they had their name and team decals on their bikes and helmets.  But right next to them was a dude on a heavy steel frame with a luggage rack mounted to the front fork. 

 

The start of Barry Roubaix 2014

I put a lot of time into deciding exactly what bike, wheels, and tires I was going to ride.  Depending on the weather conditions studded tires might be required if the temperatures were below freezing and there was a lot of ice.  Or wide knobby tires might be better if the temperature was above freezing and it was wet and sloppy.  They day before the race the course was dry and hard packed so many riders I talked too were riding higher pressure and skinnier tires.  However, it had rained overnight and I foresaw things being sloppy and wet rather than hard packed.  The temperature was hovering just above freezing so I chose to go with a 33 millimeter Challenge, file tread tire at 42 psi.  This would give me a little cushion to ride over some of the slop but a decent pressure to ride on the hard pack.

 

My rig

At the start I was hearing rumblings that the first 10 miles were going to be brutal but that the whole course was not like that.  Since I was starting near the back of the pack the plan was to hit the gas early, get to the front, and hang on for the ride.

The sun was barely peeking out of the clouds when the whistle blew to start the race, exactly on time at, 11:00 am.  It’s a bad feeling when you see people moving at the front of the pack and you are still sitting still waiting for the bunch in front you to start moving.  But soon I was up out the saddle and weaving through the crowd making my way to the front.  The bunch was slow and as we made our way out of town it was easy to get to the front before the first section of gravel.  The “easy” part of the race abruptly ended at about 3 minutes when we made a right hand turn onto the first gravel road.  In a matter of seconds things went from Sunday morning club ride to the Tour de France.  The front guys hit the accelerator and we took off.  I was chasing the wheel in front of me instantly.  My mind went blank I was holding on for dear life.  The road was filled with potholes, washboards, soft sand, and mud.  The camber of the road dove sharply left and right into deep ditches filled with water and muck.  The mud was so thick it felt like arms were reaching up to pull me off into the ditch.  I was fighting the bike to stay upright and to hold the wheel in front of me.

Good representation of an easy part of the course

The first 8-10 miles of the race were a total blur.  My heart rate was pegged over 180 and my legs were screaming.  But with every hill and acceleration I could feel the pack behind me dwindling down.  I kept the pace high and told myself over and over “don’t lose that wheel” in front of me.  No matter what.  The climbs were steep and the mud and water just kept coming.  It was hard to see much in front of me so sometimes all you could do was hit the holes head on and pray not to flat or crash.  Other times as the pack whittled down it was easier to see a line through the holes and muck and chart a decent course.

Finally after about 10 miles the pace eased slightly as the road transitioned from the muddy apocalypse to more just wet gravel and some hard pack.  At this point I could see there was a group of 15-20 off the front and I was in the second chase group.  As the shattered riders reformed and assessed the situation I recovered a little and saw that the group I was in was pretty strong.  When we hit the first paved section we began to work together to try and catch the lead group.  Despite the fact that we were all from different teams and didn't know each other from Adam we could all sense the strength of our group and willingness to work so we started taking even pulls at the front chasing down the leaders.

The case group forming early in the race

Clearly there were some very strong riders in our group who were taking longer pulls but I was feeling good and doing my fair share of work.  Around an hour into the race I took my first peanut butter and jelly sandwich out of my pocket and ate that.  I also made an early race mistake which cost me dearly two hours later.  Knowing the road was rough I’d taking one water bottle and put it in my back pocket so it wouldn’t fall out.  After taking a drink I went to put it back in the cage on the bike and it slipped out of my hand and fell to the road.  We were going way to fast to stop so all I could do was curse under my breath and hope that I could make the best out of the one remaining bottle I had.  Thankfully I had dropped my plain water bottle not the one with my electrolyte mixture otherwise I’d have been really up a creek.

As we settled into our rotations I was feeling good  but our pace was slow.  A lot slower than I’d thought it would be.  The muddy roads were causing the pace to be slower than last year which meant more time on the bike.  I was worried I wouldn’t have enough food and water to last the whole time.  All I could do was go as hard as I could and hang on.  I was doing well on the climbs and at one point I was off the front of our group until another rider came up an told me to slow down a bit so we could keep our group together.  It was a little flattering and I definitely felt like one of the stronger riders in the group.  We continued working together to pull back the leaders and finally a little over halfway we caught a bunch off the main group.

  

I'm at the back of this group

At the time I thought we had caught the whole first group but as it turns out we didn’t.  It was just a portion of the group and there were still other riders off the front.  This was a mistake because we stopped working together as much once we thought we’d caught the main pack.  We accepted that we were all together and settled into new larger group.  At this point we were well over half way through the race and I was starting to feel the distance.  My legs were starting to tingle with the first signs of cramps.  For me this is my worst enemy and I have a history of cramps that completely obliterate my performance.

I continued to feed and took a few electrolyte tabs to try and replenish lost fluids.  But I think the lack of water was having an effect.  The pace was still high and every section of mud took that much more power to maintain speed.  I drifted to the back of the group and finally was just hanging on by a thread.  I looked down at my computer and could see there were only 10 miles left.  I was at my limit and could sense that I might not make it.  I knew it was going to be very close.

Me grinding up another glimb

I took my last gel and emptied my bottle.  From here on I was on my own.  Soon after that I went through my first bout of cramps mixed with a nutrition bonk.  It was horrible.  Finally, my quads AND hams both completely locked and I could not stand nor sit to alleviate them.  There was no position that would free my legs from the cramps.  I shifted to a high gear and applied as much pressure as I could to the pedals which flexed the muscles just enough to alleviate the cramps for now.  But I knew it was just buying time.  I could no longer get out of the saddle on the climbs and was forced to stay seated and just grind low gears up.  I was at my end and I knew it.  Finally on one of the numerous muddy hills I lost contact with the guy in front and could not force my legs to bridge back up.  Sadly I watched my group pedal away and I was left all alone in no mans land.

It’s a sad feeling when you know your race is over but quickly your mind changes into survival mode.  Now I was fighting just to finish.  I looked down and had less than 10 miles to go.  To me at the time it felt like an eternity.  I fell into my rhythm and continued to soldier on.  My cramps got worse and when the second bout hit me I couldn’t pedal any more.  I had to pull over to the side of the road.  I tried to stand but my legs were locked in a vice front and back.  All I could do was sit on my top tube and try and wait for them to pass.  After about two minutes I was able to get back on the bike and pedal forward again.  I forgot that I had saved a sugary snack for the end and quickly ate this last little morsel of nutrition.  It worked and in around 10 minutes I could feel the effects of the nutrition and the bonk fading.  2 miles from the finish I started to think about how it would end when suddenly a large group swamped me.  It was the remnants from another chase group that had been following me the whole time as I suffered on my own. 

Not wanting to get dropped by another group of 20 riders I applied as much pressure as I could to stay with the group.  My legs were cramping all over but I just kept mashing the pedals.  I went to the front of my new group and knew we were going to be sprinting.  On the run into town I had memorized the final turns and knew them like the back of my hand.  I knew there was a sharp left just before the finish and that the race would be decided BEFORE that turn and not after.  On the second to last turn I took it wide and accelerated for all I had left and pushed past the leaders until I was out front.  Immediately we went into the final left and I was sprinting for all I had.  I knew I was going to win the sprint now and as I got close to the line I made the second mistake of the race.  I eased off just enough and just at the line got caught by not one but three other riders.  Bam, Bam, Bam.  I had lost 3 places.  I was extremely disappointed to make such an amateur mistake.

Post-Race Photo

As we coasted to a stop I saw the bunch of guys that I’d been with a majority of the race.  They looked pretty beat up and I knew that it wasn’t just me feeling it that day.  I sat down and felt the cramps slowly leave my legs.  I congratulated my coach Mike who had taken 2^nd in his race.

With nothing more to do I sat a bit until I felt I could pedal again and made my way back to the car.  Changing was tough because I was sore all over, from head to toe.  My feet were soaked from being drenched in numerous puddles and I was covered in mud from head to toe.  The wind picked up and I got chilled.  I was completely drained of all energy and sore from head to toe but felt a huge sense of accomplishment that I’d finished the race and done absolutely everything I could.  I left it all out there.

In looking back I’m happy with the ride.  I rode to the limit until I absolutely couldn’t do it anymore.  Turns out it was about 30 minutes to short on this day.  My bike preparation and planning were perfect and I wouldn’t make any changes to my choice of bike, wheels, tires, or clothing.  If I had to do anything I’d have taken a few more gels and another bottle but I’m not sure if it would have helped.  It was the longest race I’d ever done both in time and distance so it was a learning experience mentally and physically.  Sometimes that is just as much a win as standing on a podium.

Lake Michigan Circle Tour 2013 Video

As I mentioned in many of my previous journal entries one of the goals of the trip was to document it through video clips and photographs.  I put a huge effort into setting up the GoPro camera on the bike, charging batteries at night, downloading images to flash drives, etc.  It was a ton of work and ultimately I came home with over 42,000 photographs and movies to sort through.  

Over the course of the winter I sifted through the pictures and began to stitch together short clips based on the geography and timing.  Some parts I sped up if they were very long straight sections, others I slowed down if the terrain was interesting.  It was a very time consuming process because the length of the video quickly got out of hand if I made the speed go to slow.  For example at a 1x speed the original video was over an hour long.  So the short clips got stitched into days and the days got stitched into weeks.  After some Movie Maker Magic I think I created something that tells the story of the trip as much as you can in 10 minutes.  Obviously it can't really recreate the trip but it gives you a little taste.  Enjoy!

Day 10 – Sunday, September 8, 2013

Union Pier - Chicago

Both Heather and I didn’t sleep well at the hotel that night. The bed was small and uncomfortable and it was directly above a noisy restaurant and patio which was very loud.  We both woke up early at around 6am and I were anxious to get the final day underway.  I passed on breakfast knowing that the sooner I could get home the sooner I could get to my favorite breakfast place in Wilmette, the Pancake House.  I packed my gear for the final time and put on my kit for the day.  It was sunny and clear with not much wind which was a noticeable change from the past two days.

Leaving hotel on the last day of the trip

Setting out I had no choice but to follow the Red Arrow highway south past New Buffalo and into Indiana.  Since it was early Sunday morning there was no traffic but to be safe Heather followed behind me in the car with the blinkers on to alert traffic who might not see me.  It was comforting to know that she was there since there was hardly any shoulder on this stretch.  We stopped after about 30 minutes to take a picture as I entered Indiana… Only one state to go!  I made great time with the lack of wind and fresh morning legs.  Pretty soon I hit the Dunes Highway which was a little safer for biking so Heather turned off and went on back home and I continued on. 

Getting back into Indiana

The Dunes is a nice stretch that goes through the woods and is pretty scenic.  I enjoyed that part of the ride a lot but knew the worst was yet to come.  After another hour the road came out of the woods and the scenery started to turn industrial. I passed East Chicago and the American Steelworks. Then the BP Gas Refinery.  The petroleum smell in the air was thick and pollution turned the blue sky gray and cloudy.  The traffic picked up as my comfort level with the surroundings went down.  When I hit Garry, IN I was going pretty much as fast as I could to get out of there.  Garry is a total armpit, but the silver lining was the newly paved stretch of road I was on.  Last year this road was under major construction but now it was all done and the fresh blacktop was really nice.  The new asphalt took me straight through Garry and into Hammond.  When I hit the Harrah’s casino in Hammond I knew I had made it.  I didn’t have to follow my map anymore because I knew the way home from here. 

Just outside Garry, IN

Sometimes I got a little bored and with no traffic took a self portrait

Just past the casino was where I crossed into Illinois.  There is no sign but I knew were the state line was from past experience.  It goes right under the I-90 Skyway Bridge.  As I crossed into Illinois the terrain changed from industrial to more residential.  I got on highway 41 north and followed it until I hit a detour.  The bridge for highway 41 going over the Calumet River was closed for construction.  I knew another way over the river and went around to the next bridge.  The bridge was up and there was a line of cars a mile long.  I rode up to the foot of the drawbridge and looked each way to see how long it would be.  I could see a boat way down the river but it didn’t seem to be moving. 

First view of the city skyline

I stood and waited for a few minutes and had a gel.  5 minutes turned into 10 and I wondered what the heck was up.  Finally after about 15 minutes I couldn’t wait any more and had to look up another detour.  The next river crossing was way out of the way and I had to backtrack south almost 2 miles before I was able to cross the bridge.  Then it was another 3 miles to get back on course.  I was a little annoyed because of the inconvenience but in hindsight those last miles are what put me over 1,000 for the trip.  If it hadn’t been for that detour I would have been just a few short of the 1,000 that I wanted.

A little fog covering the skyline for my ride home

When I got back on course I flew for the last few miles north until the hit the lakefront path.  Of course the minute I did I ran into the annual Chicago Half-Marathon which was taking place ON the path that day.  After 10 days of open roads and hardly any use of breaks I was annoyed to have so much traffic in my path.  I weaved my way through he crowd and continued north on my familiar training grounds. 

It had been about 4 hours since I left Union Pier and instead of feeling excited to be back I felt a huge since of relief.  I was very sore and tired and felt beat up from head to toe.  I was anxious to get home and get off the bike.  I didn’t stop for many pictures and continued pushing north.  After the Chicago Marathon I hit the Chicago Bears Sunday tailgate at Soldier Field.  The smell of the grills made my mouth water and I pedaled even harder to get home.  I was starving!  There were a lot of joggers and pedestrians on the path so I had to be careful and slow down.  I continued north through the city and onto my regular work commute.  I was close.

I started to get excited knowing how close I was to home.  When I made the turnoff onto Bryn Mawr I decided to pass the regular bike shop and not stop.  Last year I had stopped in to say hi to the guys who had supported me during my preparation, but today I was really hungry and tired and anxious to get to the Pancake House.  I could have done the last 3 miles in my sleep because I’ve done it so many times before.

I made the turns without thinking and before I knew it I snapped out of my daze and realized I was turning onto my street.  I pulled up to the house where I’d left 10 days earlier and just kind of stared straight ahead.  It was hard to believe I was right back where I’d started.  I got off and stood the bike against the neighbor’s bushes and went and sat down on my front porch.  I took off my helmet, shoes, and camelback.  I just kind of took it all in and tried to enjoy the moment.  I was exhausted and unbelievably happy to be home safe. 

Finally home after 10 days

Heather came out and congratulated me and took a picture.  I wasn’t quite as interested in final photos and dramatic statements this time.  I just felt relief and exhaustion and soreness.  I had done it…. Again. 

The weirdest part of the whole trip was walking the bike back down the gangway and into the basement.  It’s something I do every day on my commute and after such an epic ride it seemed like a pretty ordinary ending.  I leaned the bike up against the wall in the basement like I do every day and walked upstairs.  It was over.

With nothing to really unpack I just changed into clean clothes and sat on the couch for a while.  It’s a weird feeling because so much has happened…. Yet there really isn’t much to say after it’s all done, just an enormous sense of accomplishment and satisfaction.  We went up for breakfast and I have never eaten so much in my life.  Actually, for weeks after the ride my appetite and digestion were totally out of whack.  I was constantly hungry and just couldn’t eat enough.  I had lost over 10 pounds during the trip and was down to 160 when I weighed myself on the bathroom scale.  I’m normally around 172.

Kitten comes out to greet me at home

Heather had arranged for a massage that night and as I relaxed I tried to reflect on the trip.  I knew I should go and update my blog, Facebook and twitter but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.  I was so tired and burned out I needed to just decompress and get away from things for a while. 

It took a week off the bike before I could come back and really unpack and start to reflect on the trip.  I had managed to get all the photos for my stop motion movie and I am still in the process of getting that done.  I reviewed all my daily journal notes to update the blog and am ready to close the book on this year’s ride.

In the end I was able to raise enough to donate 50 bikes for World Bicycle Relief and I am much more proud of that than accomplishing the ride.  In retrospect the fundraising part was more stressful and took more work to prepare than the actual ride itself.  The emphasis on that aspect is what kept me off-focus the first few days of the ride.  But, I am so thankful and happy for all those who contributed to the ride and who took money out of their own pockets to help others.  It takes a lot to do that.  The more time goes by and I reflect on the trip I realize that it wasn’t about the ride… it was about the bikes.  The planning, the route, the gear, the bike, was all for one reason and that was to build support for WBR and encourage people to donate. 

I’m so happy and blessed to be physically and mentally able to do this and very proud of what we were able to accomplish in the end.  Not just the ride but the 50 bikes.  That’s what has a real impact.  If I’d done the ride just for myself it would have been empty and meaningless.  Don’t get me wrong it still would have been cool.  But that’s all it would have been is a cool story to tell.

I’m so glad to be able to help and now as I sit here writing this I think about those 50 people riding their new bikes around and it makes me happy.  It makes it worth it.  For all the hard days, the soreness and the stress.  It’s worth it.  

Day 9 – Saturday, September 7, 2013

 Holland – Union Pier

Saturday morning Terry and Fred got up early and made a huge pancake breakfast with fresh Michigan blueberries. I ate so much I thought I was going to pop.  I justified my gluttony by saying it was “fuel” for the day.  Although, it didn’t really matter because I was going to burn off those calories in a matter of hours.  We ended up talking a late into the morning and I ended up getting a later start than I was hoping.  I was anxious to get to Union Pier because I was meeting Heather that night and a friend who had his boat docked at New Buffalo Harbor.

Fred, Terry and I on the start of day 9

We said our goodbyes and I took off.  The minute I swept around the lake and made the turn south the wind slammed me right in the face.  I couldn’t believe how strong it was.  Even in the wooded areas there was no shelter from it.  There was a little climbing at the beginning of the day but I knew it would flatten out later.  The road snaked its way through the woods and over some rolling hills.  It was a very pretty morning ride.  My ankle began to bother me again and I tried not to push it to hard and tear something.  My biggest fear was an injury that would prevent me from finishing the trip, especially in the last few days.

Some clouds moving in to start the morning

The morning was sunny and it was starting to heat up.  The wind was absolutely relentless, it seemed to come from all sides and no matter where the road turned it was coming straight at me.  I was churning the pedals furiously but just seemed to be crawling along.  I knew that getting through South Haven would take about an hour and then another hour to Benton Harbor which was a little over half way on the day.  The time seemed to creep along at a snail’s pace and the wind seemed to be pushing me backwards.

View of the harbor in South Haven

In South Haven I detoured down to the pier, which I’d never seen before and ended up stopping to eat a gel and talked to a lady and her husband for a few minutes.  The few minutes turned into almost 15 minutes as she talked my ear off about god knows what.  I stopped listening after about 5 minutes and kept thinking about how the heck I was going to get out of there.  Eventually, I tuned in to hear something about a foreign exchange student staying with them who was related to the king of some African country.  I still have no idea what she was talking about.  But, finally she wrapped up the story and I was able to squeeze in a sentence about WBR and my trip.  Hoping to get a donation I was disappointed to learn she didn’t have a computer.  Part of the fun of the trip was all the interesting people I met along the way and this was no different.

South Haven Pier

I finally managed to get out of there and continue on to Benton Harbor.  The wind didn’t let up one bit and only seemed to get stronger as the morning wore on.  There were also a few good climbs coming into town just to increase the difficulty.  I knew Benton Harbor was half way and I willed myself not to stop until I got there.  I said I’d stop at the bridge for a break just as I got into town.  The miles ticked away slowly until I finally could see the bridge up ahead.

  

I stopped on the bridge for a gel and saw dad drive by.  I went ahead a mile and met them at a gas station.  They’d been following me using the GPS link and knew exactly where I was.  They had stopped and got me a chocolate milk and a snack and it was really nice to just relax for a second before continuing on. 

When I took off the wind immediately was in my face again.  I made my way south and eventually made contact with the Red Arrow Highway which went straight into Union Pier.  This section is extremely dangerous because there is no shoulder and the cars fly by at 60 miles an hour.  Last year I was thankful to make it out alive and this year I was taking no chances.  I detoured around the Red Arrow but that required an additional 15 miles of riding on a lot of hilly back roads.  The roads were extremely rough and bumpy, and with the high wind and scorching sun I was really suffering.

 

Coming into the hotel at Union Pier

At the end of a very long day on the bike

The afternoon dragged on and I was pretty miserable.  I was sore from head to toe, hot, tired, and going 15 mph into a horrendous headwind.  The miles ticked away and finally I turned east onto a road cutting straight into Union Pier.  The headwind disappeared as I went into the woods and I was struck with an enormous sense of relief.  When I finally pulled into the hotel at Union Pier I was destroyed.  I could only get off the bike and collapse into a chair on the front porch of the hotel.  Dad and Karna were leaving that night to go back to Iowa so I grabbed the computer, downloaded my last pictures, and we all went down to the beach to take a walk and say our goodbyes.

Heading down to the beach to say our goodbyes

Me at the end of day 9 in Union Pier

Dark clouds were rolling in and it started to drizzle.  It was sad to say goodbye after spending the past 5 days together.  We hugged, and just like that they were gone.  It was kind of lonely.  Heather and I called up my friend Mike to ask if we were still on to get together.  He said yes and that even though it was starting to rain we could go on the boat and eat dinner and have a drink.

 

Sunset over Lake Michigan on the last night of the trip

We drove down to New Buffalo and found the harbor where his boat was docked just as the sky’s opened up.  When I saw the boat it was certainly not what I expected.  A Yacht would be a better description.  Immediately my worries about the rain went away and we got on board and went down below into the spacious cabin for a glass of wine.  We chatted the evening away catching up and having a wonderful time.  After an hour or so we went upstairs and saw that the skies had cleared and it looked like it was going to be a nice night.  We took off the cover to the boat and headed out onto Lake Michigan.  As the sun set we ate dinner on the back of the boat and talked and enjoyed each other’s company.  It was an amazing sunset and a fabulous time.  We cruised around the lake and viewed the mansions on the shoreline until after dark until we finally returned to the harbor. 

Heather and I after dinner cruising Lake Michigan

We said our goodbyes and I was so happy to have spent the last night of the trip that way.  Celebrating the occasion with my friends and seeing the best sunset of the whole trip.  It was perfect.

Day 8 – Friday, September 6, 2013

Ludington – Holland

Buttons at the Park Dairy

Right before bed the night before I’d checked the weather and knew the wind was going to be straight out of the south for the next few days.  But, I didn’t really know what that meant until opening the door Friday morning and feeling the rush of cold air off the lake.  Dad, Karna and I went to a small restaurant up the road for breakfast and Dad told us how he used to go there when he was a kid when the location was an ice cream shop called the Park Dairy.  He and his brothers and sister would beg my grandpa to buy them a Sunday so they could get a free button that said “I Was A Pig at the Park Dairy.”  Unbelievably when we got to the restaurant we found that it was actually attached to an ice cream shop.  Dad went and asked the owner about the location and amazingly it was the SAME shop owners that had been there when he was a kid and they still had the buttons!  Dad had to buy one but I teased him saying that he had to eat the ice cream to earn it.  My ravenous appetite didn’t fail me at breakfast and after a relaxing hour or so we all walked leisurely back to the hotel.

Getting ready to leave on day 8

Dad and I at the start of day 8 just after breakfast

Starting the day with a beautiful view of the lake

I got ready being careful of my fresh sunburn and headed out to start the day.  The wind was coming straight at me and I was struggling to make any sort of time against it.  The previous day’s effort was also taking its toll and my right ankle started to hurt on the backside by the achilles tendon.  I was trying not to push it but it seemed to get worse when I got up out of the saddle to climb.  I tried to take it easy on the climbs by staying seated and pedaling at a higher cadence to relieve the pressure.  It seemed to work for the time being.

Small lake created by the Lake Michigan dunes

The road eventually gave way to a trail that started in Whitehall.  This was the town where Norman and June Ullman were from and I thought of our previous meeting at Mackinac Bridge with a smile when I went through town.  Eventually I picked up a nice trail that went straight down to Muskegon.  It was an old rail line and with no climbs and a little shelter from the wind so I made good time.

Power plant entering Muskegon.  Trail on right goes right through it

I wanted to follow the trail into town to see the remains of the other old car ferry that used to cross Lake Michigan along with the Badger.  But when I got downtown the trail ended and I got off course and lost.  I realized that when I’d planned the day my computer had re-routed me onto highway 31 without me realizing it.  Highway 31 is incredibly busy and dangerous and I knew there was another road that went to Grand Haven.  Since, I knew the general direction of where I was supposed to go so I tried to strike out on my own, but after making a hundred twists and turns I had no choice but to get back on the course and follow this busy highway down to Grand Haven.

Stopping for lunch in Grand Haven

It was incredibly frustrating because I knew there was a back road that was really scenic but I just couldn’t find it.  The highway was a disaster and cars were whizzing by.  It was hotter than blazes and the road had so many potholes it was impossible to avoid them all.  Combined with the wind I was frustrated and irritated for the last 40 minutes into Grand Haven. 

When I finally arrived in Grand Haven I met up with Dad and Karna for a little lunch on the Grand Haven Pier.  They had brought me a sandwich for lunch and a chocolate milk which I was more than happy to devour.  We didn’t rest long because I was anxious to get the day over with and get to Holland where I knew all my relatives were meeting for a BBQ dinner. 

 

Dad and I getting ready to leave Grand Haven

Beautiful view of the pier in Grand Haven

To boost my spirits dad decided to ride the last hour down to Holland with me so as he geared up I took some pictures of the pier and hung out.  It was a totally different state of mind having dad there.  We talked and laughed and rode along at a good pace.  We stopped by my grandpa’s old house which we would visit as kids.  I have great memories of that house and of Grand Haven in general from when I was a kid visiting there.  We took it easy the rest of the afternoon and enjoyed the ride. 

Grandpa Bosman's house in Grand Haven

Riding with dad down to Holland

When we finally made it to Terry and Fred’s in Holland we were both tired and ready to be done with the day.  After changing and showering we walked over to the lake which was just across the street and enjoyed a nice walk on the beach.  It was hot and dad and I both wanted to go swimming.  The report said the water temperature was in the 70s but it felt like 50.  We both timidly walked out until finally we both had no choice but to just jump in.  We swam for about 30 seconds than ran out.  We enjoyed walking on the beach in the afternoon before returning back the house to visit and eat dinner.  My dad’s Aunt Christie and Uncle Jay came over and my cousin Stephanie and her family also came up to visit.  They all brought food and we enjoyed a fantastic meal around the big table.  Even my dad’s Uncle Jim and Barb came over which was a real treat.  We all told lots of funny stories and laughed the night away.

 

Swimming at the beach in Holland

On the bluffs looking over the lake after swimming

Can you say tan lines

At the end of the day as I lay in bed I calculated the miles.  I’d gone 822 so far… Knowing that there were only 2 days left I calculated that if I followed the route exactly I would be at 994 miles for the trip.  Just shy of 1,000.  I really wanted those last 6 miles.  

Day 7 – Thursday, September 5, 2013

 Traverse City – Ludington

Today was going to be the “Etape Reine” or Queen Stage of this year’s trip.  It was not the longest in terms of miles at only 110 but the climbing was beyond compare.  The elevation profile for the day was over 4,000’ with a hilly morning followed by three large climbs in the afternoon one after the other.  I vividly remember the difficulty of this day last year but this year’s route took it up a notch.  Because I wanted to avoid the busy and dangerous Highway 31 I rerouted to some back roads that added even more miles and more climbs to the day.

 

Silver Lake

The morning was beautiful and sunny as Dad and I ran up for breakfast at the Omelet Shop which was a nice little restaurant up the street.  I knew it was going to be a tough day and was a little nervous.  Immediately after leaving town there is an 800’ vertical climb straight up going west to the town of Empire.  I delayed at breakfast trying to delay the inevitable but finally we had to leave and I readied my gear for the day.  I headed out into the morning commuter traffic of downtown Traverse City and was immediately reminded of hometown Chicago traffic.  I started the climb and it seemed to be over before I knew it.  Not as hard as I’d remembered but still an epic climb.  After that it was lots of hills and some highway traffic until I got to the town of Empire. 

At Empire I turned south and ran into Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park which was a very scenic and hilly section of road.  The other strange factor about this section is the roads paved surface is not concrete or asphalt but a mixture of small stones which get adhered to the road with a tar of some sort.  This rough texture has a huge effect on the tires and makes it incredibly hard to pedal on.  The tires don’t roll smooth so the result is a huge amount of power wasted just to maintain a minimal speed.  Even going downhill you have to pedal hard to maintain speed.  It is a really strange feeling to be working so hard to go downhill… obviously uphill is even worse.

 

Following the Lake Michigan Circle Tour Signs

The day heated up and by late morning I realized that I’d forgotten my sunscreen at home and I was getting burned to a crisp under the hot sun.  As it happened every day, hour by hour morning gave way to noon and into the afternoon I rode on without stopping.  I passed a turnoff for a lighthouse which I’d heard was really cool.   It was a mile off the road up a big hill.  I climbed it excited about what it would look like.  At the top I rode another mile to find the lighthouse was closed for construction and you couldn’t get to it.  Another 2 miles back and 4 total out of the way.  A sign would have been helpful.\

Lighthouse I drove out of the way to see

Most of the road was shaded by trees and with the hills provided a nice but challenging ride.  I rode around a number of lakes which I can’t remember the names of but were beautiful and shimmering in the sun.  When I reached the scenic lookout off highway 22 just outside of Arcadia I knew I still had over 50 miles to go and I was tired.  The view at the top of the bluff is spectacular and I took some pictures and even saw a school of fish swimming far below.  The sun was bright and the blue/green water was completely transparent.  I stopped to talk with a couple who seemed curious about my ride but then continued on.

At the lookout with 50 miles to go

Can you spot the school of fish in the water?

Looking south to my afternoon route

The afternoon was hot and the three huge climbs were still to come.  One after the other I tackled them and each seemed bigger than the next.  I flew on the downhill’s as fast as I could and that made it seem somewhat worth the climb.  Finally I made it to the town of Manistee which I knew was only an hour outside Ludington.  I didn’t stop to take in any of the fall scenery and took notice of the leaves that were turning color and starting to fall even though it was only September.

Get ready to do some climbing

Things flattened out for the last hour of the day and I rode through cornfields and country roads all the way into Ludington.  I felt a lot better than I did last year but it was a rough day on the bike and by the time I made it to the Blue Spruce in I was hurting.  When I got off the bike my first thought was “wow it’s over” I knew the hardest parts were behind me and I was on the home stretch. 

 

Nice lake view in the afternoon

Apple storage building I rode by in the afternoon

Turkeys at the side of the road

Finally getting into Ludington

Dad and Karna met me in very short order and we checked into our hotel rooms. We had finally gotten the Live Track feature working on the Garmin so they could see my exact GPS location on their phone.  I changed and showered and then we went for a walk on the boardwalk to go grab dinner.  Dad treated us to a delicious dinner right on the harbor and I had a seafood pasta which was excellent.  We relaxed and enjoyed a great meal then headed out to watch the sunset and ferryboat “Badger” come into port.

 

Ludington Harbor

The Badger

The Badger is the last running, coal powered, ferry boat that runs between Michigan and Wisconsin.  At the time it is on the brink of being shut down by the EPA due to the coal ash pollution the boat dumps into the lake during the trips.  It’s a huge boat and really cool to watch it come in and dock.  The boat comes in full steam then drops the anchor on the front which whips the boat into a 180 putting the back end right at the tip of the dock then it just backs in slowly.  It’s incredible to watch.

 

Sunset at Ludington

We walked and talked until the sun was just about ready to set and then we went out to take a few final pictures of the day.  By this time my legs were sore and I was beyond tired.  The sunset was beautiful but I was ready for bed.  Getting into bed my abs were so sore I couldn’t sit up in bed.  I had to roll left and right to get out of bed in lieu of sitting up.  It was amazing how all the riding was taking such a toll on my body.  I ate the rest of the pie dad brought from Traverse which was a delicious snack before bed.  My appetite was incredible and I seemed to be hungry all the time.  As I lay in bed unable to sit my sunburn was aching and I was sore from head to toe.  But I was on the downward slope to home and I knew it.