Thursday, February 28, 2013

Lake Michigan Circle Tour - Behind the Scenes


This post is the first of what will be a compilation of details on my Lake Michigan Circle Tour.  I wrote this mainly for myself so that I could remember everything even when I'm a senile old man of 102.  But in case anyone is interested in some of the finer details and happenings of my trip you might enjoy reading about it.  I'll call it a "Behind the Scenes" look at how it all came together and how it almost didn't happen at all.  What it REALLY felt like... the good, bad, and ugly of the 10 days I spent on the road. 

Not all of it is interesting but its from the heart and its how I felt or was feeling at the time.  It's funny that as time passes the memory seems to forget the hard parts and only focus on the overall accomplishment.  So sit back and relax and enjoy the trip.

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Preparation / Planning


I first got the idea to ride the Lake Michigan Circle Tour back in 2010 when riding my normal training routes along the Chicago lakefront and north on Sheridan Rd.  My commute to work takes me along Highway 41 which is Lake Shore Drive and on the weekends I typically will go north along Sheridan Road which runs north all the way to Wisconsin.  During these rides I would see the green highway signs for the Lake Michigan Circle tour.  I did a bit of research online and saw that this was a pre mapped route that went not just through Illinois but Wisconsin, Michigan, and Indiana circumventing the entire perimeter of the lake.  I started thinking about how long it would take and if it would be possible to do it on a bike.

I started by mapping exactly how many miles it was around the lake.  I assumed a travel distance of about 100 miles per day and from my door went north to Milwaukee which was about 100 miles.  I continued around stopping at the nearest town to the 100 mile daily limit and determined that the entire route was just about 950 miles.  Doing the math I figured I would need a minimum of 10 days to complete the trip.  This minor bit of planning was all the further I would take it until the summer of 2012.  The idea was always stuck in my head but it seemed like such a daunting task that it was really no more than a dream at this time.

At the beginning of the racing season in 2012 I was working with a guy and got to talking about doing this epic ride later in the year.   Once he was on board my planning really took off.  I did a thorough and detailed mapping of the route and determined the exact towns where I would stay at the end of each day.  This took quite a bit of time because I was following routes that would avoid major highways but also follow scenic trails and also the contours of the lake.  As I got closer and closer to an actual route the miles crept up closer to 1,000. 

As the route got more developed I started seeing that the daily mileage would exceed 100 on some days while others would be quite shy of 100.  To minimize my stays in hotels I tried to stay with friends and family as much as I could.  My wife’s Aunt and Uncle live in Harbor Springs Michigan while my Aunt lives in Traverse City Michigan.  I also have a distant cousin who lives in Holland Michigan.  Knowing that I had places to stay in these towns I made sure to make those towns finishing points on the route.  Finally I completed the route that would take me around the lake in 10 days.  It would start with a short 90 mile day to Milwaukee followed by three back to back 120 mile days to get to Harbor Springs, Michigan.  From there there would be two short days before kicking up to 100 mile days to take me home.  The final planned route was 975 miles.

The 10 day time frame was really a matter of convenience and a result of remaining vacation time off work.  My planned duration allowed to me to take five days of work, using both before and after weekends, as well as the Labor Day holiday, thus giving me ten total days.  The downside to this plan was that there were no extra days built in for breakdowns, injury or any other problem that might come up.  Having no extra time for delay would mean that I would rely quite a bit on luck to make it around and in the days leading up the trip this became one of my major worries.

In early 2012 just as my plans were really taking off I suffered a major setback.  My friend Dan who was planning on doing the trip with me left the company to go work out West.  This meant if I was still going to do the trip I’d be doing it solo.  Then in July, I suffered a really bad injury while on vacation in Colorado mountain biking.  I shattered my collarbone in 5 places and cracked some ribs which required surgery.  I was out of work and off the bike the entire month of July.  Although, I was able to ride indoors on the trainer my racing season ended and so did the dreams about doing the Lake Michigan Circle Tour. 


Towards the end of July, after I had started to heal up a bit I began to think about the rest of the year.  I had already put in for the vacation time at work and aside from my partner being gone there was no reason to NOT do the ride… that was, unless I was not cleared by my doctor to ride.  I had to wait and be patient during my recovery and decided that I wouldn’t go against his recommendation if he said I could not ride.  But I also started to think that if he cleared me to ride I would have about a month to get ready and do it.  The next few weeks leading up to my final doctor’s appointment were filled with anticipation.  If the x-ray showed that I was healed enough and the doctor cleared me to ride the ride was on!

On August 6 I went back to the doctor for my follow up appointment.  He took an x-ray and as he sat there examining it I was holding my breath.  He turned around and said everything looked good and gave me the green light to ride outside again and do the trip if I was up for it.  I had to ask him again just be sure I heard him correctly and he confirmed that yes I was all healed.  I decided right then and there that I was going to go for it. The trip was on.  I remember leaving the hospital with this amazing euphoric feeling of excitement and anticipation.  The time was right and everything had come together in just the right way making it seem like it was meant to be. 

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Planning the Route

After the doctor gave me the go ahead I only had three weeks to get everything finalized.  My first task was to finish the details of the route.  I had already decided on the towns but now I had to get down to the actual turn by turn directions that would take to get me from A to B each day.  I ordered road maps but they weren’t detailed enough to show all the county highways and side streets that I would be taking.  I found the best way to survey potential routes was to use the Street Views on Google Maps.  I could zoom in on a specific road and see if it was busy or if it had a wide shoulder and then decide whether or not I wanted to take that road.  Over the next two weeks I spent hours poring over “The Google” mapping out every road, turn by turn, for each day. 

Street View of Highway 2 in the UP

After mapping out only the first few days I realized that the Upper Peninsula of Michigan was pretty sparse.  Not only are there very few roads up there but there are also very few towns.  This created a problem because I had to have a hotel and a restaurant every night.  To find suitable accommodations over the first four days the route turned out to be one 95 mile day then three back to back 120 mile days.  I was concerned this would be too much but I really didn’t have much choice.  After I got out of the Upper Peninsula I could go back to a more regular 100 mile a day route.   With some slight modifications I soon had a turn by turn map of each day that could be easily stored and modified along the way.  The next question was how to take each day’s route with me.
Map of all my final courses plotted in Garmin Connect (I had alternate routs for some days)

I decided to try out the map function on my Garmin 705 bike computer.  The computer has a built in GPS mapping system but I had never used it on such a scale before.  I started by testing a map that I had created online on the Garmin website.  I downloaded the map to my bike computer and the route showed up as a pink line that I could follow.  I did a few test runs over the next few days on my way to work and decided that it would work very well for guiding me to where I needed to go.  I was still nervous using something that was still relatively new to me but I felt confident that it would work.  I transferred all my routes onto the Garmin website and then downloaded them to my GPS Device.  By the time I was done I had 10 portable Garmin Files that I could bring up on my bike computer each day and follow from door to door.  Technology is a beautiful thing!

Monday, February 25, 2013

World Bicycle Relief

From the moment I decided to do the ride I knew that I wanted to include a fundraising effort as part of the planning.  Even though it was going to be a little extra work I knew that I could use the ride to raise awareness and money for a worthy cause.  The World Bicycle Relief is an organization that I have always supported and it seemed logical that I use this ride to donate bikes directly to those in need of one.  The World Bicycle Relief is an organization that buys bikes and sends them to African country’s where populations don’t have access to easy forms of transportation.  In Africa everything is really spread out, and for children, walking 10+ miles to get to school is not possible.  The bikes allow people greater access to jobs, schools, and healthcare opening up a whole new world for them.  It was so awesome to think that with each mile I pedaled I would be helping to put a Bike in someone else’s hands. 



My hesitation was that I wouldn’t make it and that I would be embarrassed and ashamed if I couldn’t make it around.  If I went ahead with the fundraising effort I would have to make a webpage and tell everyone what I was doing.  It was scary because I had no experience with anything like this before and I didn’t want to come up short and let everyone down. I agonized for a few days trying to decide what to do.
Finally, as the days ticked away I decided, that even if I failed the money would still go to a great cause and I was not about to let my insecurities rob someone of an opportunity for a better life.  I set up a webpage and emailed my friends and coworkers.  Immediately donations started pouring in and in less than a week I had reached my goal and then some.  My original thought was to donate 10 bikes, one for each day of my trip.  But when I set up the site I made my goal 5 because I didn’t think there would be that much interest.  In less than a week I’d hit 5 bikes and by two weeks I was over 10 bikes.  The generosity of people was astounding and humbling to say the least.  Instantly the ride took on a whole new meaning and I was even more excited to support this charity and bring awareness to the WBR cause.
In the end I was able to raise over $1800 for the World Bicycle Relief and throughout the ride people came up to me and offered checks, cash, and even went on the website and donated.  It was as if everyone I met wanted to help, whether it be financial or just friendly encouragement.  It made me feel so

Sunday, February 24, 2013

The Final Pieces

Bike Selection


The first major choice I had to make was selecting what bike to take.  I had two choices, my light carbon Specialized Tarmac, and my heavy steel framed Surly Crosscheck.  They each had advantages and disadvantages.  My race bike was fast, light, and I was very comfortable with the fit.  Since this had been my primary bike all year I was fairly sure I wouldn’t have any unforeseen knee, back, or other joint problems.  
2005 Specialized Tarmac (Road Bike)
The downside was that it was not very comfortable on long rides.  Bikes transmit road vibrations and flex differently depending on their materials.  Steel, carbon, titanium, aluminum all ride very differently and have differing levels of comfort and stiffness on long rides.  A long day on the carbon road bike is very tough on the body.  Conversely the steel absorbs road vibrations very well and makes the ride much more comfortable.  But that bike is heavy and slow.  I was also concerned about the added weight of the pack I would be carrying.  The surly could certainly handle this extra weight better.   The deciding factor was the next weekend when I did a short ride downtown on the Surly. I felt like I was riding with lead weights on my feet… and that was with a good strong tailwind.  I decided right then to go with the road bike.

Surly Crosscheck
Choosing the right bag and rack to hold my gear was going to almost as critical as choosing the right bike.  It wouldn’t make sense to ride a light, fast frame with a big heavy rack.  So, I planned my rack and bag for either scenario.  I had a rack for my steel framed Surley but it was heavy, and with an already heavy frame it was not the ideal choice.  I did lots of research and found a company called Arkel out of Canada that made a rack and trunk bag combo suited for road bikes with no rear braze-ons.  Called the Randonneur Seat Post Rack, instead of clamping to the frame it clamped to the seat rails making it very sturdy.  It was also very light weight and the bag itself called the Trail Rider Trunk Bag, had a built in rain cover which I liked.  It held a total of 944 cubic inches.  This was all the room I was going to have for ten days.  The minute I got the rack in the mail I knew that was what I wanted to use.  It fastened securely to the saddle rails and seat post and the bag used a series of Velcro straps to sit nicely on top.  It was perfect.  The only small nagging detail was it was EXTREEMLY small.  There wouldn’t be an extra inch to spare.
Nutrition Planning
The minute I started packing stuff into the 944 cubic inch bag I knew there was no way everything was going to fit.  Taking a page out of my dad’s Appalachian Trail playbook I decided to mail supplies ahead to my various hotels and stops so that I would only have to carry a maximum of 2 days of nutrition.  I broke each day down by hour and figured out at an average of 18 mph (which was my assumed pace) how long each day would take.  

 The first four days would be the longest by miles but as it turned out not the longest by time on the bike.  I also used historical data to determine how many calories I would burn each day on the bike.  The human body can only process a certain amount of calories per hour, and very quickly it became evident that I would not take in as many calories as I was burning on the bike each day.  Using a rough calculation I would only be able to take in a maximum of 2,000 calorie per day on the bike.  The rest would have to be made up off the bike at breakfast and dinner.  For the “on bike” nutrition I planned for 5 energy goos, two power bars, (which I later upgraded to 3) 2 cliff bars, (which I later sent home because I couldn’t stomach them) and a big breakfast bar that had 380 calories which would be a mid-day snack.  I also packed some Shot Blocks which I really like as kind of a treat or snack in the afternoon.  The nutrition planning and what actually happened turned out to be very different.
What I found while riding was all the energy bars melted in about 5 minutes so the minute I would open one I’d have melted chocolate all over the place.  The goo’s also turned to liquid in the sun so I essentially had sticky hands, handlebars, and face all day.  The big 400 calorie bars were too much to eat in one sitting and I had to practically force them down.  Almost all the nutrition I brought was horrible yet a necessary regiment that I HAD to follow to keep going.  I never stopped for a meal during the day, and instead choose to start each day with a big, and I mean BIG, breakfast and finish the day with an even bigger dinner.  I found that the before and after meals were just as important as the “on bike” nutrition.  I didn’t realize that the nutrition plan would be a 24 hour process including before, during, and after each days ride.
Supplimental "On Bike" Nutrition in Wisconsin
I put together packages of each day’s nutrition and sent them out to three separate points along the way.  Each was no more than two days from the next so the most I was every carrying was two days.  This helped to minimize the size of nutrition I would be carrying.  During the ride I found this plan worked out extremely well and offered plenty of room for other items that would prove to be just as valuable.  Like spare tubes… more to follow on that.
Just as critically important as nutrition was hydration.  Since I would be riding in the heat of late summer, cramping and dehydration were real concerns.  I have always had bad problems on long rides with cramping so on this long journey I was doubly concerned.  My cousin Tod Fenner who is an avid mountain biker in Colorado gave me one of the most critical pieces of advice when he suggested I bring a Camelbak.  Up until now I had never used a camelback other than occasional day hikes, but it turned out to be the most critical piece of gear I brought.  The Camelbak held 1.8L and I purchased two additional water bottles that each held 32 oz. so each water fill-up gave me almost 4 Liters of water.  This was perfect for about half a day and worked out perfect to stop once at about halfway each day and eat a bar and fill-up on water.
Fully Loaded Bike Ready to Go
At each fill-up I dropped a few electrolyte tablets into the bottles to replenish sodium and maintain electrolytes in the body.  However, I knew from previous hot weather rides that it wouldn’t be enough.  I supplemented with sodium / potassium tablets about every hour or 30 minutes depending on the heat and how I felt.  The electrolyte balance is the body is different for every person and since there are so many factors that can affect it it’s really hard to nail down an exact formula.  Every time I felt a twitch in my legs indicating the start of cramps I’d take a salt tab and it would go away.  With the Camelbak, bottles, and salt tabs I was able to keep hydrated and replenished with electrolytes continuously throughout the day.  At night I would fill the bottles again and keep hydrating throughout the evening to make sure I was never completely dehydrated.
Not my actual Camalbak but mine is very simialr to this one
Final Gear Selection

With weight being an ever constant concern I put together the final pieces of gear that would be essential to my trip.  Since I was using electronics for all my mapping I needed chargers for my phone, bike computer, and mp3 player.  I also wanted to bring an actual hard copy map in case I got stranded with no batteries or electronics.  I ordered state maps from Wisconsin, Illinois, and Michigan and trimmed all the edges off so as only to carry the areas of my route.  This map trimming idea was also originally taken from my dad’s Appalachian Trail hiking.  The last few pieces of gear were a rear view mirror which clipped to my sunglasses and a reflective vest.  Both were very crucial pieces of gear as far as safety was concerned.  I got so used to looking in the mirror it felt weird not having one on after I got back.  It also gave me an added feeling of safety knowing I was much more visible to cars and could see behind me when traffic was heavy.
Me with my vest and rear view mirror
Other miscellaneous items I carried were laundry detergent to wash clothes each night, a bottle of pepper spray which the wife wanted me to carry as added protection, paper and pen for journaling, ibuprofen, sunscreen, chamois cream, bike lock, emergency medical kit, and some bag balm ointment in case I had any rash or saddle issues.  I also brought a pair of "shants" pants that have zipper legs that turn into shorts.  I brought a tshirt, rain jacket, and spare socks which I could wash every day.  To top it off I strapped a pair of sandals on the outside of the pack for getting around off the bike at the end of each day.
Bag after first day.  Only carried the book the first day.
The final pieces of gear were bike maintenance tools.  Although I never planned on having flats or mechanical issues I wanted to be prepared for the worst.  I brought a multi-tool, 2 spare tubes, a patch kit, tire levers, lube, zip ties, and wrapped some duct tape around the rack just in case I needed to throw a hail marry.  As it turned out I would need all these emergency supplies and more.

Go Time
The week before my trip I was very nervous and excited to get going.  I had decided on the bike, the rack, nutrition, route and everything I needed was ready.  But in the back of my mind I had doubts as to whether or not I could actually do it.  I never told anyone except for Weston my friend at work but deep down I wondered if I could really do it.  I kept thinking “ten centuries in a row” can I do it?  I was more concerned about the short time frame than my fitness.  My belief was that I would have knee pain, back pain, or some other injury that would keep me from finishing or force me to take a few rest days.  I actually didn’t make my hotel reservations for the last day until the week before I left because I never thought I would get there.  I don’t know why but it just seemed like such a daunting task that I never could imagine myself riding to New Buffalo, Michigan.  I thought I would make it to Mackinac or a little further but could not picture going further.  Maybe it was this mental block that made getting there (and further) such an incredible feeling.

With some doubt and a lot of excitement to get this show on the road all of a sudden it was Thursday night and I was finally packing my gear for day 1.

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Day 1

Friday, August 31, 2012
Chicago – Milwaukee
93 Miles


Ride Data

The night before I left I couldn’t sleep at all.  I was all packed and ready to go with a trunk full of spare parts and gear for Heather to bring with her to Milwaukee that night.  For the first three days she was planning on meeting me at the end of each day.  This was a plus because I didn’t need to carry extra nutrition and supplies for the upcoming days.  I cleaned the bike from head to toe, greased and oiled all moving parts and attached my rack, lights, and bottles.  I packed my nutrition for the next day, charged the Garmin and got my Arkel Trunk Bag packed.  When I lay down in bed that night it dawned on me that I wouldn’t see my own bed again for a long time.  But the excitement of what it would be like to actually get on the road for 10 days was overwhelming.  After months of planning and years of dreaming about it, the trip was finally here!



Picture of me walking out the door (Taken by my neighbor Dan)
Friday, I woke up very early and couldn’t get back to sleep.  Heather left for work and I was left to do the final preparations alone before setting off.  I ate an egg sandwich and changed into my bike gear which would be my only change of clothes for the next 10 days.  It took about an hour to finally get everything packed and situated for the day.  But as I was heading out the door I realized there was no one to take an inaugural photo…   It felt wrong to start this 1,000 mile journey without a “before” photo, so I rang the neighbors doorbell.  Just as I thought no one would answer he came to the door in his robe.  Dan is super nice and I asked him if he would take my picture.  He gave me a weird look but of course said “no problem” standing in the yard he took a quick picture as I explained what I was doing.  He looked at me as if I had two heads but said “good luck and be safe!!” with that I was off.
The bike by my favorite spot just north of Highland Park
The weather that morning was absolutely beautiful!  Light wind, sunny and around 70 degrees.  It was exactly 9:00 AM.  As I rode down the street and around the first corner I couldn’t help but wonder what I was getting myself into and what the next 10 days would be like.  The one thing I remember from those first few miles is that I couldn’t stop smiling.  It seems funny now looking back but I just couldn’t wipe that darn smile off my face.  I headed north on my normal route up to Highland Park then beyond to the Wisconsin border.  I stopped at the border to take a picture of the Wisconsin sign, which had the iconic Circle Tour sign, that I was so used to seeing.  Only three more states to go!  The first 50 miles were the easiest I’ve ever ridden.  I felt great, the legs felt great, and the weather was cool.  At mile 50 I made a poignant, left turn which was one of the scariest turns I’d ever taken.  It was the turning point for all my century rides up to this point.  Up until now I would ride north for 50 miles then turn around and come home to complete my century rides.  This was the furthest north I’d ever been.  As I turned left I said to myself “here we go… uncharted territory”  Everything was no unfamiliar and new to me and the real adventure was about to begin. 


Crossing into Wisconsin
After 60 miles the day started to heat up and things got serious.  I hit long stretches of gravel trail which ran directly under power lines so there was absolutely no shade at all. The midday heat radiated off the stone and I cooked like an egg in a frying pan.  It was about this time that the wind picked up out of the north and became a powerful headwind.  Going into mile 70 the heat was intense and so was the wind.  The terrain got much hillier and the riding got a lot harder.  I also hit some bad sections of trail and road which required me to slow down.  A few times I even got lost jumping from trails to roads and had to search for the route.  I decided that it was probably better to stick to actual roads rather than try to switch between trails and roads.  I came across this same scenario many more times as the days unfolded.  As I entered South Milwaukee I caught my first glimpse of the city.   I had dreamed for years about riding up to Milwaukee and now I was finally doing it.  It was an amazing feeling, and once again I found myself smiling like a fool.
Unbelievably long stretch under the power lines.  Temp 90+ Degrees
First view of Milwaukee
 The last 15 miles of the day were a breeze and I started feeling good again and as I entered the city. It was exciting to see the change of scenery and be close to completing the first day.  I cruised up the Milwaukee lakefront trail and through a large park.  It was full of people and had many trails crisscrossing their way through the trees.  The scenery of the lake and tress were beautiful and there was a soft breeze cooling me down from the heat of the day.  I passed a museum with a really cool cantilever bridge going over the road and stopped to take a few pictures.  I road past the park and into downtown and then up a giant hill making my way to the hotel.  I got lost a couple times turning from roads onto trails but was able to get back onto the right trail and cruised into the hotel.  The hotel was right on the river which sounded better on paper than it actually was.  The trickle of a river was nothing special to look at and when I arrived at around 3:00 pm there wasn’t much activity at all.  The first thing I did was take my shoes off.  My feet felt like they were on fire and were very sore.  I checked in and walked in my stocking feet up to the room.  After changing quickly I went down to search out some food.

Downtown Milwaukee

Cool pedestrian bridge in Milwaukee

View of a fountain in the park overlooking lake in Milwaukee
After going into the restaurant and finding no one working I introduced myself to the nearest family and asked where everyone was… they gave me kind of a weird look but said there was a waitress around.  Finally she came up and I took a seat at the bar.  For some reason she came around the bar and took my order while standing next to me which I thought was a little weird.  After getting a cold root beer and a sandwich I was chowing away when I looked down and realized my fly was standing wide open…. AND since I was packing light I was going “commando”…. Oh My!!! I zipped up and shook my head.  Now it all made sense.


The bike in my hotel room at the end of Day 1
Finally, when I was I went back up to my room to read.  The one luxury item I took (only on day 1) was my book.  I was reading Stephen King the Dark Tower series and was very close to the end of a book.  It was getting so good I couldn’t put it down.  SO I hauled the 1,000 page novel up to Milwaukee in my bike bag so I could read it before Heather got there for the evening.  It was hilarious to see that I’d cut the edges of the maps out so as not to carry the extra weight then carried a 2 lb. novel.  But it was worth it and I spent the rest of the afternoon napping and reading.

That night Heather arrived and we went out to the Cheesecake Factory for dinner.  It was one of the only times I ate everything on my plate.  I was beyond hungry and drank two huge glasses of chocolate milk.  After returning home for the night we realized I’d left my extra big 32 oz. water bottle at the restaurant.  Realizing my hydration and water was everything on this trip I had no choice but to get out of bed and go back out and to the restaurant and get it.  Collapsing into bed exhausted I happily, reflected back… Day 1 was in the books.



Friday, February 22, 2013

Day 2

Saturday, September 1, 2012
Milwaukee – Green Bay
119 Miles

After the efforts of the previous day I assumed I would sleep like a baby, but I didn’t.  I was up almost all night with excitement and anticipation of the next day.  It also didn’t help that the hotel bed as basically a piece of plywood with a sheet on top.  I ended up finally getting out of bed at 5:00 am and driving (Heather had brought the car up) to a Perkins down the road which turned out to be closed.  I drove back to the hotel and managed to get another couple hours of sleep before getting up for the second time.  I went back to the same Perkins at around 7:30 am for breakfast.  It was pretty much the worst breakfast I’ve ever had, and I didn’t eat half of what was on my plate.  It’s hard to believe you can mess up French toast but they found a way.  Note to self: “avoid all Perkins in Milwaukee area.”  I left feeling pretty unsatisfied and went back at the hotel to pack.  I quietly said goodbye to Heather since she was still in bed asleep and headed out the door to start Day 2.

Today would be the first of three back-to-back 120 mile days.  During the planning stages I was a bit nervous for these long early days, and today was no different.  The route did not follow the shoreline of Lake Michigan but instead wound up the back country roads further west.  I wanted to avoid most major highways and the county roads certainly offered less traffic.  However, the route was very complicated with lots of turns to keep track of.  This only added to the challenge of an already long day.  I was going to have to be on my guard to make sure I didn’t get lost since everything was all new to me.
It was a cool and breezy morning with hardly a cloud in the sky. The weather was crisply perfect when I rolled out of the hotel parking lot on a network of bike trails and side streets before hitting the rolling hills of rural Wisconsin.  The crosswind soon turned into a strong north headwind which stuck with me for the rest of the day.  As the morning and miles ticked away the day just seemed to get more and more perfect.  The scenery was spectacular with lots of rolling hills, tree shaded back roads, and small towns.  There was almost no traffic to speak of and as I cruised along I was in pure bliss.  I kept passing small dairy farms with old red barns with huge stone foundations and big silos.  I felt like I wanted to take a picture of every one so I could preserve their memory.  I stopped and took a picture of a barn that was built in 1899, it was like a scene from a Norman Rockwell painting.
Day 2 Morning Scenery

Day 2 Morning Scenery
Old barn I photographed built in 1899
Around mid-morning I entered the Kettle Moraine Scenic Drive which was absolutely amazing.  Rolling hills and a winding road crawled through the State Park and bobbed up and down through the countryside.  With no traffic to contend with I was on my own to ride in peace.  I didn’t listen to the radio much and was just in my own thoughts as I climbed and coasted up and down through the hills.  I hit a local country store after about two hours and stopped for a break.  Going into the small country store was like stepping back in time.  The low ceiling of the place was covered in fishing poles, fishing gear, and every other type of outdoor paraphernalia.  The ceiling was very low and being pretty tall I felt like I was walking around in a 6’ tall cave of junk.  I grabbed a root beer and a jerky stick and went outside to sit on a bench and relax for a few minutes. 
One of many farms I passed along the way
It was mid-morning and the day was starting to heat up but I found a nice shady spot to sit.  The parking lot was deserted and shortly the cashier came out and we started chatting.  I explained the trip to her and she was amazed and excited for what I was doing.  She explained that she had always wanted to do a 100 mile ride but didn’t think she could do it.  I told her to just start small and do 10 miles first then maybe 20 and just to keep working up to it.  It was really fun talking with her and I could tell she was excited.  I asked her to take a photo of me, which she did, and after saying goodbye I was off again.

General store where I stopped in Kettle Moraine

Picture taken at the general store by the cashier I talked too
Looking south (where I had come from) at the general store

The day heated up fast and soon I was sweating buckets… Heather was on her way hoping to meet me for lunch, but with no easy way to communicate it was hard to find a meeting place.  Finally at around 2:00 in the afternoon I stopped at a Laundromat in some small town and met up with her.  It was nice to have a break, and I was out of water completely.  I filled my bottles from a mop sink at the Laundromat and ate half a Panera sandwich before setting off again.  I had about 40 miles of my 120 mile day left to go (about 2 hours) and after another 30 minutes or so I hit the last stretch of trail that would lead me into Green Bay. 
A really scenic hilltop on my way north to Green Bay
I spotted the trail up ahead and as it grew closer and closer I realized with growing dismay that it was not paved but gravel.  I was aware of the potential for some gravel roads on my route but I was not prepared for how rustic this one was.  The first few miles were rough, but after 100 miles my body was sore and tired and this bumpy trail seemed to be like some sort of medieval torcher.  Mile after bumpy mile, crawled along with the only saving grace being the tall trees on either side which not only blocked some of the wind but offered precious shade from the afternoon sun.  Finally after what seemed and literally was hours I made it to the final paved section leading into Green Bay. 
Section of gravel trail on my way to Green Bay
It was always amazing how the final 15-20 miles each day seemed as easy as the first.  But everything in between was very hard.  The last few miles through Green Bay took me over the river and up the city streets to the hotel.  When I finally got there my feet were crying out for mercy and I was exhausted.  But, this evening I had a swimming pool and hot tub to greet me which I had been thinking about since about 11am.  Immediately I took the shoes off my aching feet and went to go check in.

Bad picture of me taken by a tourist at the hotel at the end of Day 2 (Note: Shoes still on)
Ahead of me in line to check in to the hotel was a mother and her son.  When I walked in the door in my stocking feet they both glanced up at me.  The mother turned around and smiled and asked if I had a long ride.  I laughed and said “you could say that.”  I told her I’d left Chicago Friday and ridden up here on my way around the lake.   The sons eyes grew round and he stared at me in disbelief.  Finally after a long few seconds he said “Boy you must really like to ride your bike!!” I laughed out loud and all I could think to say was "yep."  We talked for a few minutes and they just could not get over the fact that I’d ridden my bike up there.  However, they were excited when I explained about WBR and the reason I was doing the ride.  With some minor celebrity encouragement I headed up to the room to do the daily laundry.
Doing laundry in sink with MGD Bottle
As I was washing my clothes the first of many hunger cravings came over me.  I called Heather who was out looking for a swimming suit and asked her to bring a six pack of MGD bottles.  I can’t explain it but I just had to have one right then and there.  When she finally got back I immediately grabbed one and cracked it open.  God I have never tasted anything so GOOD!  After washing the bike clothes for the day and hanging everything up to dry we went down to the hot tub for a soak. 
The hot tub was filled with giant fat hairy men and there was a greasy film on the top of the water that looked like the Exxon Valdez oil spill.  Disgusted, but also sore I pushed aside my thoughts of what diseases might be in that water and plopped in for a soak.  The water felt great and was really relaxing and I sipped my beer, relaxed and considered the first of three 120 mile days in a row.  The next two were going to be tough!

After a nice soak I was back in the room going over some of my gear when I made a surprising discovery.  My front wheel had a crack in the rim!  The rim had split horizontally along the edge in a way that didn’t look like I had hit something.  I was in shock because I didn’t remember hitting anything and I didn’t have any idea what would cause a rim to do that.  The tire was still holding air and I decided to just keep an eye on it and push on.  This turned out to be a Big Mistake!!  No more like a HUGE Mistake.  I wouldn’t find this out for a few more days but the groundwork was laid for an epic fail to come.  As it turned out I think the heat was to blame for the fracture.  Later, after talking to my mechanic, he said that rims can sometimes fail with a buildup of heat and split like that.  With the long ride and heat of the day I think that is what happened, but I can’t be certain.  Heck it might have happened the day before… I’ll never know.
Broken rim

We went out and found a small local Italian restaurant and I ate a giant pasta dinner with two or three huge glasses of chocolate milk.  I had read that chocolate milk was very good for post ride nutrition because it had lots of vitamins, protein and the chocolate added something that I can’t remember.  I might have just imagined reading that actually... But it really doesn’t matter it seemed to work and I drank as much of it as I could throughout the entire trip.  After that enormous dinner we headed back to the hotel I passed out. 










Thursday, February 21, 2013

Day 3


Sunday, September 2, 2012
Green Bay – Escanaba
118 Miles


Ride Data

Sunday morning I awoke and walked to the car to go get breakfast.  Since Heather had driven up I still had transportation for another day.  Approaching the car, I noticed it sitting at quite a substantial angle.  I walked around the back side to see that the back tire was completely flat.  I checked and immediately saw a giant screw lodged in the tire.  Luckily there was a gas station across the street so I drove on the flat tire to the station and filled it up, but knew it would have to be fixed.  I ate breakfast at ANOTHER Perkins which was only slightly better than the worst Perkins on the planet that I’d eaten at the previous morning.  I returned to the car and drove back to the room and started to devise a plan to fix the tire and get riding.

Early morning ride Day 3
I woke Heather and told her about the tire and she agreed to get it fixed that morning so I was free to get ready and head out.  I packed for another long, 120 mile day in the saddle and headed out into the morning coolness.  Going north out of town was really like heading into town because I had stayed on the southern outskirts of Green Bay.  I rode through town and then out of town going north along the shores of Green Bay.  I hit some really long straight stretches of road with no grade at all, that were just as flat as a pancake.  The scenery was mostly farm fields but there were also some woods starting to appear as I went north.  The morning was beautiful and cool with barely a cloud in the sky.  The roads seemed to stretch on forever and in some of the fields I saw turkeys, herons, and other birds mostly around the ponds and high grass areas.  There were very few cars, as it was Sunday morning and even though I was on a road with no shoulder there was no real danger of traffic.

Herons in a field just off to the right
A swampy marshy area as I got closer to Lake Michigan
About 30 miles into the day I was riding along following my Garmin GPS map, which was working out beautifully to this point.  I swung into town and saw that I was about to cross a bridge over a river to continue north.  All of a sudden I screeched to a halt and stared in amazement at a giant construction project where the bridge was supposed to be.  I rode up and down the street looking for a detour but there was nothing.  I realized there was no way to cross, so I used my cell phone to get a better map of my location and find another crossing.  The next river crossing was miles away in each direction and I had no choice but to start backtracking.  At first I was a little irritated but pretty quickly I got over it and realized that it was all part of the experience that it would probably happen a few more times.  As it turned out I was right. 

Bridge Detour
As I went over a set of train tracks I noticed a rattling sound and the bike felt kind of funny.  Without giving it much thought I continued on, and after 5 or 6 miles I was back on my track again and moving fine.  However, after another 20 minutes and around 40 miles into my day I noticed a swaying feeling from the back of the bike and heard another rattle.  I stopped and looked, only to find that a bolt had fallen out of my rack causing the whole thing to hang at a drastic angle.  I was out in the middle of nowhere with few tools and certainly no extra nuts or bolts.  I put my ISU engineering skills to use and quickly improvised a solution.  I took another bolt out of the rack, which thankfully was the same size and used it temporarily to hold things together until I could get to a town.  I cautiously rode on until I hit the outskirts of Marinette, Wisconsin where I happened to drive by an AutoZone.  I stopped and went in and was fortunate enough to find some nuts and bolts to put things back together.  After cobbling together a fix with some chewing gum and pop sickle sticks I went ahead and tightened all the other nuts and bolts before heading back out.  I definitely dodged a bullet on that one.
Look back south towards Wisconsin where I crossed at the river bridge
I headed north through Marinette which is the town separating Michigan from Wisconsin.  I was really excited to cross into Michigan for the first time.  I had previously driven this route with my dad and brothers for my bachelor party so I knew the dividing line was a bridge that ran through town.  I was hoping to meet Heather here to take a picture of me crossing into Michigan but she was getting the tire fixed and wasn’t able to get up there in time. There isn’t an official “Welcome” sign so I stopped and took a picture of the Michigan Visitor Center sign and continued on.  Immediately upon entering Michigan the bike lane ended and the street turned to a cobbled mess of potholes and bricks which reminded me of riding the TrouĂ©e d'Arenberg at Paris-Roubaix.

Crossing into Michigan at the Marinette bridge
Soon after heading north out of Marinette I hit Highway 35 which runs along the Western shore of Lake Michigan all the way to Escanaba.  This was the first time since I’d left Chicago where I’d been riding right next to Lake Michigan.  I had already done 70 miles today and was feeling tired and ready to be done for the day.  It was at this point I pedaled slowly past the “Escanaba 53” sign, meaning 53 miles (about 2.5 hours) before arriving at Escanaba, my stop for the day.  Ugh! The heat was picking up and so was the wind and traffic.  This was going to be a long afternoon. 
The Escanaba 53 sign
Scenery along the Lake going north on M35
Soon enough I heard a beep coming from behind me and Heather drove up with a sandwich for lunch. I wasn’t really hungry but I ate anyway.  As I ate my sandwich she walked around, popped the trunk, and brought out a giant hunk of cheese.  No, not real cheese, but a giant foam cheese head that the folks in Green Bay wear to the football games.  For the first, and last, time in my life I had my picture taken as a cheese head.  I totally felt like a traitor to my Chicago roots and felt compelled to do the Super Bowl Shuffle.  But, re-energized I headed back out into the afternoon heat to finish up the day.

Grinding on, I had my headphones on and was just riding it out when I heard another beep coming from behind me.  I knew Heather was on up ahead so I assumed it was some jack-ass trying to run me off the road.  I pulled over and motioned for the person to pass.  They slowed and pulled up alongside me.  I waited for some item to be thrown or tossed at me in rage, but it was a group of high school kids with their window down.  Waiting for what was to come next, I was expecting the worst.  Instead the passenger leaned out the window and said “holy cow you’re going 22 miles an hour!!!”  The look on his face was just about as excited as a person can be.  I smiled and said “I know” then they drove off.  I laughed to myself and remembered that outside of Chicago the whole world isn’t necessarily out to run you over.  Not long after that I pulled into a gas station to refill my water and saw the same car that had pulled up alongside me before.  The same guys jumped out and came up to me curious about what I was doing.  I explained that I had left Chicago two days ago and had ridden up here on my way around the lake.  With looks of shock and disbelief they went nuts.  They asked a million questions and kept saying how cool it was that I was doing this.  I talked to them a little about WBR, my bike, and my gear.  I happily answered all their questions and chatted for a few more minutes.  Finally they drove off and I headed out again.  I think after our meeting they probably all went out and bought bikes. 
Long sections along M35 going north to Escanaba
The House of Ludington where I stayed in Escanaba
As the afternoon drug on my feet started to hurt worse and worse.  It was like a dull ache that just wouldn’t go away.  I would get out of the saddle and pedal for a while then sit back down for a while.  Using this rotation of standing and sitting I kept on.  Finally after another hour or so I pulled into the town of Escanaba, marked by a giant billboard.  Today was unlike the others in that I wasn’t feeling quite so good these last few miles.  I was desperate to get off the bike today.  I reached the hotel which was a beautiful old renovated house on the tip of Ludington St.  The hotel overlooked the entire bay which could be seen from my window.  The weird thing was there was no one at the hotel.  And I mean not a soul… not even any employees.  The hotel was run by a couple, who were out of town for the weekend but had left a key in the box.  Heather had gotten the key and let herself in and found that there was no one else staying there that night.  (We knew this because there were no more keys in the box) it was really weird to have the entire building to ourselves. 
Me in front of the hotel after a VERY long 6.5 hours in the saddle
The hotel was built in 1864 officially making it the oldest building I’ve ever slept in.  We explored some of the old rooms and it was fascinating to see the old construction.  Soon enough I changed and put on my swimming trunks and we headed out to the beach which was just across the street.  I took a swim in Lake Michigan, which felt amazing after such a long day.  The weather was very hot but the sun was starting to set when we headed back to the hotel.  There was a beautiful park and lighthouse across the street and the whole neighborhood reminded me of something you’d see in New England.  We found a small diner in town and after a delicious hot beef sandwich and three huge chocolate milks we headed back to the hotel.  It was a beautiful night and on the way back we drove through the small town enjoying the sunset and old charm of the shipyards and lakefront.  Finally, back in the hotel we cracked a window to hear the sound of the lake and I took a heavenly, hot shower before crashing into bed.  Sleep was certainly coming easier and easier and I drifted off with the sound of the waves crashing in on the beach.

View from my hotel window